Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a global network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city is hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always defined its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though note that their younger generation are reluctant to master the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to learn these narratives and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.